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One was delighted to discover that the south Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

14 ounces firm potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml neutral oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.